A Self-Guided Walking Tour of Split, Croatia
In December 2018, I visited Croatia during my winter break. My itinerary left me with just one full day in Split, so I decided to spend it walking around the city. I explored the Riva Promenade, wandered through Diocletian’s Palace, climbed the cathedral bell tower, and followed the Adriatic shoreline back toward my hotel.
A self-guided walking tour of Split worked well for me because I could choose where to stop and how long to stay. The streets and waterfront were free to explore, although I paid to climb the bell tower. That climb ended up being one of my favorite parts of the day.
Table of Contents
- My Walking Route Around Split
- Split Walking Tour Map
- Starting at the Riva Promenade
- Walking Around Diocletian’s Palace and Old Town
- Climbing the Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower
- The Vestibule and a Wrong Turn
- Walking Along the West Coast Waterfront
- Bačvice Beach and the Walk Back to My Hotel
- Tips for a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Split
- Can You Walk Around Split Without a Guide?
- Was One Day in Split Enough?
- Split, Croatia Walking Tours
- Related Content
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My Walking Route Around Split
I stayed at the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Split and left my hotel around 10 a.m. The hotel is about 3 km from downtown, so my day included substantial walking just to reach the sights and return. Rather than take transportation into the center, I walked to the sights and eventually made a large loop back toward the hotel along the coast.
My day included these main stops:
- Riva Promenade and the nearby Church and Convent of St. Francis
- Diocletian’s Palace, the Golden Gate, and Gregory of Nin
- The Peristyle and the Cathedral of Saint Domnius bell tower
- The Vestibule and a detour to the Croatian National Theater
- A return to the Riva and a walk along the West Coast waterfront
- The Olympic plaques and marina area
- A walk back toward the Riva, then past Bačvice Beach toward my hotel
With sightseeing, photographs, and the walks to and from my hotel, I was out until shortly after dark, returning at roughly 5 p.m. My entire outing took most of the day, but that included much more walking than just the Old Town sights. If you are staying near the Riva, you can follow the central part of this route and decide how much of the waterfront to add.
Split Walking Tour Map
Use the map below to locate the main sights described in my self-guided walking tour of Split. It accompanies the stops in this article so you can choose which areas to explore.
My full day included the walks from and back to the Radisson Blu Split. If you are staying closer to the center, you can begin at the Riva Promenade, explore Diocletian’s Palace and Old Town, and then decide whether to extend your walk along the West Coast waterfront or toward Bačvice Beach.
Starting at the Riva Promenade
My first main stop was the Riva Promenade, the waterfront directly in front of Split’s Old Town. Restaurants and shops line the area, and it was a good place to begin exploring before heading into the palace.
When I arrived, preparations were underway for New Year’s Eve, which was two days away. Visiting in December meant I could enjoy the waterfront without the crowds I would expect during the busier tourist season.
Near the western end of the Riva, I also saw the Church and Convent of St. Francis and a nearby fountain. From the waterfront, the cathedral bell tower was an easy landmark to spot above the buildings.
Walking Around Diocletian’s Palace and Old Town
Diocletian’s Palace was the main historical attraction I wanted to see in Split. Built for the Roman emperor in the late third and early fourth centuries CE, it now forms part of the city’s UNESCO-listed historical complex.
Before visiting, the name “palace” might make you picture a single building with an entrance desk. Walking around it felt quite different. I found narrow streets, shops, restaurants, and old stone buildings within the remains of the palace walls.
You can walk through the public streets without buying a general palace admission ticket. Individual attractions within the complex have their own admission charges.
The Golden Gate and Gregory of Nin
One of the places I stopped was the Golden Gate, on the northern side of the palace. Nearby stands the large statue of Gregory of Nin, a medieval Croatian bishop.
The gate and statue were worth seeing, but I spent much of my time simply wandering through the surrounding streets. That was one of the advantages of exploring on my own: I could turn down a narrow passageway or stop for a photograph without worrying about keeping up with a group.
Get Lost in the Narrow Streets of Diocletian's Palace
Getting a little lost inside Diocletian’s Palace was part of the experience. The pedestrian streets led past small shops selling everything from inexpensive souvenirs to jewelry. Some of the shops appeared to be built right into the old walls.
I had only one day in Split and wanted to see several areas, so I generally kept my stops fairly short. Still, I enjoyed having the freedom to wander rather than treating every sight as something to check off a list.
One practical detail that stood out was a public restroom near the palace. It had an attendant and was exceptionally clean. There was a small charge when I visited, although I would not assume the same price applies today.
Climbing the Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower
Eventually, I reached the Peristyle, also called Peristil, the columned square beside the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The bell tower rises above this part of the palace, and I decided to climb it.
There were some tight squeezes on the way up, and I had to “think thin” a few times. Despite my worries that the Split Fire Brigade would have to be called to pry me out of the narrow walkways, I made it to the top.
The views made the climb worthwhile. I could look across the palace rooftops toward the Riva Promenade, harbor, and Adriatic Sea. I also enjoyed seeing the palace walls and the streets I had just been walking through from above.
Climbing the bell tower was one of my favorite activities in Split. If you are comfortable with stairs and narrow passages, I would recommend considering it as a paid addition to your walking tour.
The Vestibule and a Wrong Turn
After descending from the bell tower, I wandered into the Vestibule. This circular space once formed the entrance to the residential part of Diocletian’s Palace. Looking up from the center was one of the views I photographed during my visit.
Later, I exited through the Golden Gate and accidentally headed in the wrong direction. Getting lost was less intentional this time, but the detour brought me to the brightly colored Croatian National Theater.
I eventually found my way back to the Riva. The wrong turn was a reminder that a self-guided walking tour does not always go exactly as planned, but sometimes the detours give you something else to see.
Walking Along the West Coast Waterfront
Back at the Riva, I continued west along the waterfront to the area known as the West Coast, or Zapadna obala. Looking back toward Old Town from here gave me some of my favorite views of Split.
The cathedral bell tower stood out above the buildings, with the waterfront in front of them. After spending time in the narrow streets of the palace, I enjoyed being back beside the sea.
Finding Toni Kukoč’s Olympic Plaque
Along this stretch of waterfront, I came across plaques honoring Olympic medalists from Split. This was a particularly interesting stop for me because of Toni Kukoč.
The first time I remember hearing about Croatia was during the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. I was ten years old, and the Chicago Bulls had already drafted Kukoč in 1990. He was one of the stars of the Croatian team that won the silver medal in Barcelona.
Later, I remembered hearing him introduced during Bulls starting lineups as being from Split, Croatia. Finding his plaque gave me a personal connection to a city I had known about long before I visited.
The Marina Area
I continued along the waterfront toward an area with yachts and sailboats. Some boats were in the water, while others had been lifted out and stored for the winter.
It was quiet, and I enjoyed walking around and looking at the boats. This part of my day was less about visiting a particular attraction and more about enjoying the coast.
Bačvice Beach and the Walk Back to My Hotel
As the sun began to set, I continued toward my hotel, following the coast where I could. Along the way, I passed the Bačvice Beach area.
December was not beach season, but there were still shops and restaurants open nearby. Others were closed for the off-season. I enjoyed this quieter stretch of the day and the views across the Adriatic.
As I wrapped up my walk, I stopped to take in the sunset. I reached my hotel shortly after dark, happy that I had made the most of my one full day in Split.
Tips for a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Split
- Choose how much of my route you want to walk. My outing included the walk from the Radisson Blu Split, the central sights, the western waterfront, and the return toward the hotel. You do not need to include all of that to enjoy Old Town and the Riva.
- Allow extra time for the bell tower. It was one of my highlights, but the stairs and narrow passages made it a different experience from strolling along the waterfront.
- Keep the season in mind. During my December visit, temperatures were in the 50s Fahrenheit, with partly cloudy to sunny skies and a little wind. It was very pleasant in the sunshine, but chilly in the shade and after sunset.
- Plan around daylight if you visit in winter. I started around 10 a.m. and returned shortly after dark. A shorter route would give you more time at individual sights without a long walk back after dark.
- Separate free walking from paid attractions. I explored the streets, Riva, and waterfront independently, but climbing the bell tower cost extra.
Can You Walk Around Split Without a Guide?
Yes. I explored Diocletian’s Palace, Old Town, and the Riva independently. A self-guided walking tour of Split lets you choose your own stops, and walking through the palace’s public streets is free. Paid attractions, including the bell tower, are separate. If you want a shorter outing than mine, start at the Riva and concentrate on Old Town before deciding whether to extend your walk along the waterfront.
Was One Day in Split Enough?
One full day gave me time to see the main areas I was interested in: Diocletian’s Palace, the Riva Promenade, and the Adriatic waterfront. I would have needed more time for a slower visit or additional attractions, but I was pleased with what I saw.
Split was worth visiting, and exploring on foot suited the way I wanted to spend my day. I especially enjoyed the bell-tower views, wandering through the palace streets, and finishing beside the sea at sunset.
Split, Croatia Guided Walking Tours
I was happy exploring Split on my own, and I did not feel that hiring a guide was necessary for the walk I wanted to take. However, if you prefer someone to explain the history of Diocletian’s Palace and lead you through Old Town, a guided walking tour may be a good option.
Below are some tours to consider. I am an affiliate partner of Viator. If you book through one of my links, I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.