Walking Around Astana
Should You Visit Astana?
Astana was the first city on my Kazakhstan travel itinerary partly because it was my arrival city. Some guides suggested skipping Astana, but I’m glad I didn’t. It turned out to be one of the most unique cities I’ve visited, full of futuristic design and fascinating contrasts. Join me as I share my experience walking around Astana, a truly amazing city.
This one-minute highlight video follows my walking route across central Astana, starting at Khan Shatyr Mall and continuing through Lovers Park and the arch of the KazMunayGas Headquarters. I follow Nurzhol Boulevard to Bayterek Tower, with quick detours to nearby landmarks like the Nur Astana Mosque, Astana Opera House, and the Triumph of Astana. After passing the Ak Orda Presidential Palace, the video crosses the river to the Ishim River Embankment to feature the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, Hazret Sultan Mosque, the National Museum of Kazakhstan, and the Kazakh Eli Monument. It ends with stops at Mega Silk Way, the Nur Alem EXPO 2017 Sphere, and the Astana Grand Mosque—capturing the major sights along my full walking route.
Walking Around Astana - Table of Contents
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A Modern Capital City
Astana—formerly Nur-Sultan—is the relatively new capital (as of 1997) of Kazakhstan. The city features strikingly modern architecture unlike anywhere I’ve been. Construction is everywhere—skyscrapers rising, sidewalks being laid, and even an elevated light-rail (LRT) project in progress.
Getting Around Astana
Many of the tourist sights in Astana are within walking distance of each other. To get to places that are too far to walk, the main options are bus, Yandex Go (similar to Uber), or scooter/bike. You can rent a scooter in the Yandex Go app and pay by the minute.
I used a Yandex Go rideshare to get to and from the airport for around $6 ($9 with tip) on a 30-minute ride—great value for a capital city.
Self-Guided Walking Around Astana - My Route
On my first day, the weather was perfect, so I decided to do a self-guided Astana walking tour. This route covers many Astana attractions and can be done in a single day.
Beginning at the Khan Shatyr Mall
I began at the Khan Shatyr Mall, a uniquely tent-shaped shopping center. I was not interested in shopping but still enjoyed walking around the interior of the mall.
Lovers Park
After lunch in the food court, I walked through Lovers Park toward the Bayterek Tower. I checked out the Lovers Statue before turning around to take a photo looking back towards Khan Shatyr.
Nurzhol Boulevard
Along the way, I passed through the arch of the KazMunayGas Headquarters and saw numerous fountains and statues. From there, the pedestrian axis—Nurzhol Boulevard—runs straight to Bayterek Tower and ends at the Ak Orda Presidential Palace. A walking tour of Astana should likely start by following this route.
A Detour to the Opera House
If you want a slight detour, leave the park to visit the Astana Opera House. During my visit, construction limited photo opportunities. Nearby (not directly next door) is the massive Triumph of Astana residential complex.
Bayterek Tower – Symbol of Astana
After passing the wavy Northern Lights towers (and the nearby Emerald Towers), I returned to the park and continued toward the Bayterek Tower.
Bayterek Tower Cost
The cost to go to the top of the Bayterek Tower is ₸2,000 for adults and ₸700 for children ages 5-15. It is important to note that the ticket office and tower close from 1:00 pm to 1:30 pm for a service break.
Bayterek Tower Observation Deck
I highly recommend going to the top for panoramic views, though the yellow-tinted windows can make photography tricky—adjusting white balance helps.
At the top is an imprint of former Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev’s hand. Unfortunately, the line was extremely long, so I skipped it.
Be Careful With Zoom Lenses
Also be aware that zoom lenses near Ak Orda (Presidential Palace) can raise suspicions; a security guard asked me not to use mine toward the Presidential Palace.
Nur-Astana Mosque
After leaving Bayterek, I stepped off the pedestrian route to visit the Nur-Astana Mosque. Since I was dressed in shorts, I didn’t go inside, but its golden dome and minarets make it a striking stop on any Astana itinerary.
Construction Around the Ak Orda Presidential Palace
From the mosque, I headed back along Nurzhol Boulevard toward the Ak Orda Presidential Palace, flanked by two massive Golden Towers.
Construction blocked parts of the pedestrian route, so I detoured past the blue, petal-shaped Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall and eventually crossed the Ishim River.
Palace of Peace and Reconciliation and Museums
I followed the embankment until I reached the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a glass-clad pyramid on a hill with great views and a giant Kazakhstan flag nearby.
Down the hill, I visited the National Museum of Kazakhstan and the Kazakh Eli Monument, which celebrates Kazakhstan’s 1991 independence. Also in this Independence Square area is the circular Kazakh National University of Arts (Shabyt).
Hazret Sultan Mosque
I continued up the street to the second mosque of the day: the beautiful Hazret Sultan Mosque, which can accommodate over 10,000 worshippers. Its white domes and intricate details make it one of the top things to do in Astana.
Ending the Day by the River
As evening fell, I returned to the Ishim River embankment. People were fishing, and a 3-on-3 basketball tournament filled a nearby park. I crossed another bridge, retraced my steps past Bayterek Tower, and made it back to my hotel near Khan Shatyr Mall.
Day Two – A Late Start - Continuing My Self-Guided Walking Tour
After two overnight flights, I slept in and set out around 1:00 pm. I walked toward the Astana Botanical Garden, passing the Zhaksylyk Ushkempirov Martial Arts Palace (Jekpe-Jek) and Astana Arena. The garden had peaceful paths, lots of green grass, and many newly planted trees.
Mega Silk Way – A Giant Mall
Farther along, I passed Nazarbayev University and arrived at MEGA Silk Way, one of the largest malls in Central Asia. I cut through (free restrooms are a plus) and stopped to admire Nur Alem, the massive glass sphere from EXPO 2017, right by the mall.
Astana Grand Mosque
Just a short walk away is the Astana Grand Mosque, the largest mosque in Central Asia. The grounds are extensive with fountains and plenty of places to sit.
Inside the Grand Astana Mosque
I’d dressed appropriately (shoulders and knees covered), so I was able to go inside—remember to remove your shoes and use the cubbies.
A security agent mentioned prayer time was about 30 minutes away, so I kept my visit brief, took a few respectful photos avoiding people in the frame, and stepped out before the call to prayer.
Call to Prayer and Back to MEGA Silk Way
I listened to the call to prayer echo from outside, then headed back to MEGA Silk Way for dinner. For this meal, I had a Hardees Burger, fries, and strawberry shake. I always enjoy sampling American fastfood in foreign countries.
A Yandex Scooter Ride
By then I was tired and about five miles from my hotel. I rented a Yandex Go scooter, which made quick work of the ride. Throughout my Kazakhstan travel, my scooter trips never cost more than $5.
Final Thoughts on Astana
Astana is an impressive, futuristic city full of modern landmarks and constant development. From gleaming skyscrapers to peaceful mosques, it blends tradition and innovation at every turn.
If you’re wondering how many days in Astana is enough, I felt two days was perfect for most Astana attractions. The only places I missed were the Assumption Russian Orthodox Cathedral, the Atameken Ethno-Memorial Map of Kazakhstan, and the Duman Oceanarium. I’d love to return when the LRT opens and more of the city’s ambitious projects are complete.
Astana Tours and Packages
I created this self-guided walking route of Astana by researching the destinations ahead of time. For those wanting to copy this route, it is not necessary to hire a tour guide. That being said, I know some people enjoy a local guide. For your connivence, I have linked a few tours below. As an affiliate of Viator, I will earn a small commission if you purchase a tour using one of my links. This commission is at no additional cost to you.
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