What To See – Panama City, Panama
About My Trip to Panama City, Panama - Three Days in Panama City
I chose to spend three days in Panama City prior to my trip to Costa Rica. Panama City has always interested me due to the former US Controlled Canal Zone and the Panama Canal. In addition to exploring on my own, I took three tours during my trip to Panama City. These tours included a tour of the city, a tour of the Panama Canal, Monkey Island, an Indigenous Village, and a tour that went to the top of Ancon Hill. Each activity on this page was within an hour of my hotel in Panama City.
Below, I will break down Panama City by area visited rather than by tour. The tours covered some of the same places, although from different perspectives. Throughout my time in Panama City, I felt extremely safe. Panama City had an excellent police presence on the streets, and the local Panamanians were polite and helpful.
Throughout my trip, I followed the country of Panama’s nationwide mask mandate and curfew, which was in place from 10:00 pm to 4:00 am. Both of these government mandates were implemented to fight COVID-19.
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What To See - Three Days in Panama City, Panama - Table of Contents
- About My Trip to Panama City, Panama
- The Former US Canal Zone
- Monkey Island
- Visiting an Indigenous Village
- Amador Causeway
- Casco Viejo
- Panama Viejo
- January 9th, 1964
- Meals in Panama City
- Video Highlights of My Trip to Panama City
- Panama City, Panama Tours and Packages
- Support Buzzin’ Around the World – Visit Our Affiliates
- Earning Points and Rewards
- Related Content
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Visiting The Former US Canal Zone - Panama City, Panama
One of the top tourist sights in the Panama City area is the former United States, Canal Zone. The canal zone covered five miles on either side of the canal for the width of the country, but excluded the actual city limits of Panama City and Colón. Despite being part of the United States, Panamanians were free to enter the canal zone without having to obtain permission.
During its existence, the Panama Canal Zone was governed by a governor and had a US congressional delegate. The people who lived in the canal zone were typically government employees or employees of the Panama Canal Company who rented rather than owned their homes.
Residents who lived in the Panama Canal Zone were referred to as “Zonians,” and since the area was unincorporated, they weren’t technically US citizens. If a child was born in the Canal Zone to a parent who was a non-US citizen, the child was given the citizenship of their parent. Birth did not lead to US Citizenship unless the parents were American Citizens.
The US controlled the Panama Canal Zone until 1979, when it was abolished, giving joint control of the Canal Zone to the US and Panama. In 1999, the Canal and the Canal Zone were officially returned to the nation of Panama.
Below is the Panama Canal Administration Building, which was once controlled by the United States. At the base of the building is a monument to George Washington Goethals, who was the chief engineer of the Panama Canal.
One of my guides claimed that the grassy area below the Panama Canal Administration building was created to be the exact size of the RMS Titanic.
The Panama Canal Zone served as a city for the people who lived there and included a theater and a public high school. Balboa High School would become the center of an incident that I will cover further down the page.
One of the most famous sights inside the Panama Canal Zone is the former governor’s house. Today, this house is used by the Chief Engineer of the Panama Canal.
Visiting Ancon Hill - A Private Walking Tour
Ancon Hill is located inside the Panama Canal Zone, and was a place where government elites lived. Today, climbing to the top of Ancon Hill provides one of the best views of Panama City and the Panama Canal. I took a private walking tour of Ancon Hill, which allowed me to discuss the history of the area with a guide while climbing the hill. At the top of Ancon Hill is a Panama Flag that is the size of a regulation basketball court. According to my guide, it costs $800 to replace the flag.
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we had to park outside of the gate to Surry Heights, which today serves as the gate to Ancon Hill. Prior to entering the gate, we had to have our temperature checked and fill out a form for contact tracing.
It took around twenty-five minutes to walk up Ancon Hill. The walk itself was not particularly strenuous, although I did sweat quite a bit from the 90-degree temperatures and 80-degree dew point. As I walked up the hill, my guide explained the history of the area and pointed out tropical plants and insects. One of my favorite plants is the Heliconia, which is also known as Lobster Claws.
We also saw a poisonous millipede and a large spider. The guide did not know the species of the spider.
Built into Ancon Hill is a nuclear bunker that was constructed by the United States. Today, the bunker is controlled by the Government of Panama.
When climbing Ancon Hill, you will see traditional rainforest-style plants including a variety of hanging vines. Below is a picture of a bunch of hanging vines.
Throughout the walk to the top of Ancon Hill, I walked past a few different viewpoints. The viewpoint below offered a great view of the ships lining up to wait their turn for the Panama Canal.
When I got to the top of the Panama Canal, I first went to look at the giant Panama flag. As stated earlier, the flag is the size of a basketball court and costs $800 each time it is replaced.
After checking out the flag, I then visited the two observation points. The observation point closest to the flag provided stunning views of the city. To get to the Panama Canal viewing point, I had to walk down the path past the portable restrooms.
The top of Ancon Hill is one of the best places to photograph the Panama City Skyline. Be sure to bring a polarizing filter as the sunlight, humidity, and smog can make it difficult to take a good photograph with just a regular lens.
The viewing point for the canal provided excellent views of the Miraflores Locks, Bridge of the Americas, and Centennial Bridge. I was especially thrilled at the angle of the view that allowed me to take a wonderful photograph of why the locks are needed.
You can clearly see how the locks work in the photograph below by raising and lowering the boat. Without the locks, the water from the canal would empty into the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean.
Before returning to the base on Ancon Hill, be sure to use the restrooms. The portable restrooms were clean and are the only opportunity to go to the bathroom before walking down the hill.
Visiting the Pedro Miguel Locks
My tour of Panama City was supposed to stop at the Miraflores Locks. Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, the Miraflores Locks were unable to be visited. Instead, we observed the ships entering and leaving the Pedro Miguel Locks.
When we arrived, a large ship from the Marshall Islands was passing through the lock. Our guide explained that the locomotives on either side of the ship are meant to help keep the ship straight, and that the ship moves through the lock using its own power.
Each set of locks raises or lowers the ship to the level of the canal. If it was not for the locks, all of the water from the canal would flow into the Caribbean Sea or the Pacific Ocean.
While on the Panama Canal, the ship will fly the Panama Flag and be under the escort of at least two tugboats. The tugboats are typically only used if the ship loses power.
A Tour of the Panama Canal's Gatun Lake
I had hoped to take a partial transit through the locks of the Panama Canal. Due to Panama’s COVID-19 protocols, tours were not allowed to transit through the locks. Instead, the canal could be viewed by taking a trip through Gatun Lake, which is a large man-made lake that serves as part of the Panama Canal. I visited Gatun Lake as part of my Monkey Island Tour and was able to witness three large ships passing through.
Our boat also passed a tugboat which typically accompanies each ship through the canal. The tugboats are to ensure that a ship does not get stuck as it did in the Suez Canal.
A Tour of Panama City's Monkey Island
Monkey Island is actually a group of islands on the Panama Canal’s Gatun Lake. The monkeys that live on the islands are mainly rescues and can be seen by boat. There are a variety of tour options that allow guests to interact with the Geoffroy’s Tamarins, White-Faced Capuchin, and Howler Monkeys. For a detailed write-up of my visit to Monkey Island, please click HERE.
Visiting an Indigenous Village Near Panama City
After visiting Monkey Island, the same tour stopped at an Indigenous Village. The village is home to 49 Indigenous Panamanians who were happy to share their culture and crafts with our tour group. Prior to leaving the village, our hosts performed an Indigenous Dance. For a detailed write-up about my visit to the Indigenous Village, click HERE.
Visiting Panama City's Amador Causeway
The Amador Causeway consists of four small islands that are connected via a roadway and was one of the stops on my Panama City Tour. The causeway was built during the construction of the Panama Canal to serve as a water break for ships entering the Canal. As the workers blasted through rock to create the canal, the discarded rocks became part of the causeway.
Our guide explained that during cruise season, the causeway would be full of visitors who had departed their cruise ships. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, cruises were not allowed to disembark in Panama, leaving the causeway empty. When visiting the Amador Causeway, be sure to walk to the end to view the ships lined up to wait their turn to go through the Panama Canal.
Visiting Panama City's Casco Viejo
Casco Viejo was the second settlement in Panama City and dates back to 1673. This walled in city was created after the previous settlement, Panama Viejo was attacked and conquered by pirates in 1671.
Today, Casco Viejo is a UNESCO World Herritage sight and one of the most visited places in Panama City. When walking through this historic part of Panama City, visitors will see a variety of colorful architecture, historic churches, and narrow streets.
I visited Casco Viejo as part of my Panama City tour and enjoyed it so much that I decided to stay for two additional hours after the tour had ended. It reminded me of being in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico which is one of the more colorful places I’ve ever visited.
Our first stop on our walking tour of Casco Viejo was the remains of the city walls. When the city was built in 1673, it was necessary to have walls to protect to the city from pirates who had attacked their old settlement, Panama Viejo. The pirates were always a threat to the people of Panama due to the large amounts of gold that were traded through Panama because of Panama’s strategic location between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
Today, most of the city wall has been removed, and only a small section of it remains.
One of the most famous places inside Casco Viejo is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Panama City. The cathedral was built in 1688 more than 100 years after it was consecrated. The Metropolitan Cathedral of Panama City replaced the Old Panama City Cathedral that was located in the original city of Panama Viejo.
Throughout Casco Viejo, there are additional churches as well. Below are the ruins of a Jesuit church that also served as a convent. Prior to the Jesuits being expelled from Panama in 1767, it served as the first university in all of Panama. The church was destroyed by a fire in 1781 and then further damaged by an earthquake in 1882.
Throughout the colorful streets of Casco Viejo, there are many hotels and restaurants. The majority of the hotels offer balcony views where guests can sit and observe this historical part of Panama City.
Although you will see trolly tracks in Casco Viejo the trolly does not run anymore.
There are a few different viewpoints that offer spectacular views of Panama City. The first one is a park named Vista Panama. The park provided great views of not only the skyline of Panama City but also the waves crashing into shore just under the nearby roadway.
From the park, another place worth visiting is the tree lined shops of a pedestrian walkway called Calle 5A. The trees have grown in a way that provides a canopy over the shopping area. If you are looking to buy inexpensive souvenirs, Calle 5A is the perfect place to do so.
Calle 5A continues past the shopping area and follows the shoreline of the Pacific. As you follow this walkway, you will see additional places to get fantastic photos of the Panama City Skyline and the highway that circles Casco Viejo. About halfway down the walkway, there is a circular cutout in the fencing. This location provides the best angle to photograph Panama City.
Near the end of Calle 5A is a large obelisk that is part of the Plaza de Francia. Located in the Plaza de Francia are the French Panama Canal Monument and the French Embassy.
Visiting Historic Panama Viejo
Panama Viejo was the first permanent European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas, dating back to 1519. At first, Panama Viejo had less than 100 inhabitants, but by 1610 the city had grown to a population of 5,000 and included homes, a convent, a hospital, and a cathedral. Throughout its history, Panama Viejo suffered fires and earthquakes, which destroyed some of the structures.
Panama Viejo’s growth was largely attributed to the vast quantities of gold that passed through the city due to its strategic location on the Isthmus of Panama. Eventually, this was the downfall of Panama Viejo as the city was conquered by pirate Henry Morgan and eventually abandoned. Following Morgan’s attack, the citizens moved their city to the nearby Casco Viejo. Like Casco Viejo, Panama Viejo is also a UNESCO World Heritage Sight.
During my visit to Panama Viejo, I decided to go on my own without the aid of a tour guide. I had read that there were plenty of signs in both English and Spanish that explained the history of each of the ruins. What I’d read was correct, and I felt like I was able to understand what I was looking at without having to hire a guide.
To get to Panama Viejo, I took an Uber. Uber is extremely cheap and safe in Panama ($3-$5 per ride). I highly recommend an Uber as their drivers drive much slower and safer than the taxi drivers. When I arrived at Panama Viejo, only about 5-10 other people were visiting the ruins. The entrance fee to Panama Viejo was $10 for a foreign visitor and payable by cash or credit card.
As Panama Viejo was the first American Settlement on the Pacific Ocean, visitors will spend their time walking on a path that borders the Pacific. There are quite a few viewpoints that offer outstanding views of the ocean.
The first few sets of ruins are the least impressive. I recommend passing them by and continuing up the path until you reach the convent.
The convent at Panama Viejo was built in 1598 and then rebuilt in 1621 following an earthquake. In 200 it was restored to its current state which allows visitors to walk up the steps to the second floor. The restoration was completed in 2005, although additional repairs to stabilize the convent occurred in 2012.
One of the most unique buildings in Panama Viejo is the Aljibe. The Aljibe, also known as a cistern, could collect and store over 30,000 gallons of freshwater. During my visit, access to the Aljibe was restricted. I am not sure if this was due to COVID-19 or renovations.
The best ruins are the furthest from the entrance and include both the residences and the cathedral. At its height, Panama Viejo had over 5,000 residents who lived inside the city. The residences appear to have been built following an orderly grid system, and many of them have multiple walls still standing.
Just past the residences is the Old Panama Cathedral which is the best-preserved building in Panama Viejo. The highlight of the visit was climbing the stairs to the top of the tower to get a great view of the ruins of Panama Viejo as well as a good view of Panama City.
Three floors in the tower provide windows for viewing. I recommend going all the way to the top first and then working your way down. Be sure to stop on each floor as there are information signs near each window.
Below is an example of one of the signs. On the left, you can see what it would have looked like during the days of Panama Viejo. On the right is a picture looking out the window showing the current view.
It was interesting being able to see the modern Panama City in the background with the ruins of Panama Viejo in the foreground. I spent quite a bit of time in the tower as I had to ride out a thunderstorm. Thankfully, the tower provided plenty of shelter, and the storm was short-lived.
Just before the Old Panama Cathedral is a museum. The museum displayed interesting artifacts from the excavation of Panama Viejo. Also on display were skeletal remains.
Below is a 3-D model of Panama Viejo. The model helped show what the ruins I had just walked through would have looked like during the early 1600.
On the left is a picture zoomed in on the Old Panama Cathedral Tower. You can see the residences behind the cathedral as well.
The museum had an entire section dedicated to the fall of Panama Viejo. The city would eventually be abandoned after it was conquered by pirate Henry Morgan.
Also on display were religious artifacts from the convent and cathedral.
Two very interesting things I learned about Panama Viejo were their quests for privacy and to keep their bodies smelling good. On display on the left are keys from Panama Viejo. Apparently, Panama Viejo was one of the first settlements where almost everyone had a lock on their residence. To the right are perfume and essence bottles that were found during the excavation. Having lived in a hot and humid climate which caused lots of perspiration, residents used the perfumes in these bottles to mask their body odor.
I thought the museum did an excellent job showing what it would have been like to live in Panama Viejo. If you visit the ruins, be sure to spend a few minutes walking through the museum. Admission to the museum is included in your entrance ticket.
Learning About Martyr's Day - January 9th, 1964
January 9th is a national day of mourning in Panama known as Martyrs’ Day. Martyrs’ Day commemorates the 22 Panamanians that were killed during the anti-United States protests.
This conflict was sparked by a disagreement over flags flying in the Panama Canal Zone. US President John F. Kennedy had decided that the Panama flag would be flown beside the US flag inside the Canal Zone at all non-military sights. Unfortunately, before Kennedy could implement this measure, he was assassinated. Instead, Canal Zone Governor Robert J. Flemming decided that neither the US nor Panama flags would be flown inside the Canal Zone. Upset, the Zonians (residents of the Canal Zone) began to fly US flags everywhere they could, including at the American Balboa High School.
Now since the US flag was flying at Balboa High School, a group of Panamanian students from the nearby Institute of Panama asked if they could fly the Panama flag at Balboa High School as President Kennedy had ordered. According to my guide, they were permitted by their principal and US Soldiers to march to and raise the Panama flag at Balboa High School.
Eventually, the students reached Balboa High School and under police escort, raised the flag of Panama. The police had to hold back hundreds of people who were watching the event take place. The Zonians were upset by this and began singing the US National Anthem and tore down the flag of Panama. As a result of these actions, fighting broke out between the two groups. 22 Panamanians, known as The Martyrs, were killed in the conflict. Throughout my trip around Panama, I saw many monuments commemorating this event.
There are photographs of two monuments below. The first one shows the students from the Institute of Panama climbing up the flagpole to raise the Panama flag. The second one shows the students climbing over the fence into the canal zone.
Before I visited Panama, I was not familiar with this event. I was on an individual tour, so my tour guide asked if I wanted to visit the National Institute and Balboa High School. The National Institute is still a public school today, and classes were in session.
On the opposite side of the school is a street that used to divide sovereign Panama from the Canal Zone. The street was once known as July 4th Avenue but was renamed Martys’ Avenue following the events of January 9th.
There was a variety of street art and murals on the walls of Martys’ Avenue. All of it was dedicated to the events of January 9th.
My guide then took me to Balboa High School. As the Canal Zone is no longer controlled by the United States, the flag of Panama now flies in front of the school. There is a memorial to the 22 Panamanians who were killed, which includes an eternal flame.
Meals in Panama City
One of my first meals in Panama City was at the restaurant Lo Que Hay (What We Have). This restaurant is located in Casco Viejo and was recommended by my guide as well as a podcast I had listened to. There was a lot of seafood on the menu, which I don’t like, so I went with the fried chicken and had flan for dessert. The food was delicious, and I definitely see why this restaurant is highly recommended.
Another local restaurant that I enjoyed was El Trapiche. I ate at this restaurant as the last stop on my Monkey Island tour. I ordered the Fiesta Panama with a beef empanada and a single link of chorizo on the side.
The Fiesta Panama was a sampler of some of the most traditional Panamanian foods. These foods included a chicken soup appetizer, rice with chicken, shredded beef, plantains, a shredded chicken stew, pork rinds, and fried Yuca.
Some of my other meals included a meat sampler from Parrillada inside the Miltiplaza Mall Food Court and a traditional meal of chicken, beans, and rice from Kanaima Panamanian Restaurant.
I also had a few meals of fast food including Arturo’s Chicken, Wendy’s, and a local Chinese Restaurant.
Video Highlights of My Trip to Panama City
Panama City, Panama Tours and Packages
There are many tours available that depart from the Panama City area. Below are some of the tours that I took and others that caught my eye. Please note that as an affiliate of Viator I will receive a small commission if you book using one of my links. This commission is at no additional cost to you.
Prices are accurate as of May 2023.
 Gamboa Rainforest Combo Pack From Panama City - $165.24 Be part of this magical experience at the Rainforest, right next to the Panama Canal. You will get a glimpse of the real wild life In other words this is a great natural experience in Panama City. |
 Combination Tour from Panama City: Rainforest, San Lorenzo Fort and Canal Expansion - $85.00 Visit the Caribbean Rainforest, learn the San Lorenzo Fort history and observe the new Panama Canal Locks. |
 Full-Day Monkey Island and Indian Village Tour from Panama City, Panama - $147.43 Small group tour of Lake Gatun and Soberania National Park, searching for wildlife and visiting an indigenous village. This is a great combo of 2 popular tours, wildlife viewing where you can see up too 3 different types of monkeys as well as a real Indian village. |
 Panama Canal Partial Transit Tour from Panama City - $219.75 The tour will start at the Flamenco Marina in Panama City. The partial transit starts with a motor coach ride for 45 minutes to the town of Gamboa where the Panama Canal Dredging Division is located. Once in Gamboa, you will aboard the cruise ship to start the water portion of the tour. |
 Half-Day Panama City Tour - $140.83 During this private city tour of Panama City you will spend approximately 1.5 hours at each site and you will be able to choose the order of your visit and you will be accompanied by a professional bilingual guide who will narrate the history of Panama. During the tour you will visit the Panama Canal Miraflores Locks, Casco Viejo and the Amador Causaway. |
 Night Tours in Panama City - $68.00 We will visit the best places of the Colonial Quarter of the City of Panamá, where we will observe the nightlife of the inhabitants and appreciate its beautiful places for the Route 50 |
 Panama City Tour highlight - $60.00 This 4.5 hour city tour is a perfect combination of panoramic views, and history. The local guide will give you valuable information about Panama, the Panamanian lifestyle, history and about the Panama Canal. |
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